Easy Camera Strap Tutorial

Being in desperate need of a camera strap, for my trip to the quilt show this weekend, I not only finally used some of my precious (using golums voice) monsterz fabric, but I took it one step further, and decided to write up this tutorial as well.

Camera Strap Tutorial:

Sewing level: easy/beginer

Materials needed:

1- FQ of fabric or a quick dig thru your (or a friends, when they are not looking) scrap basket

1- Piece of Pellon 911FF Fusible Interfacing

2- 1" Swivel Hooks 

Measure your swivel hook! I used an approximately 1", so if you have a bigger or smaller one on hand, be sure and adjust the measurements to suit your needs.

Since I am using a FQ, and a print that goes in one direction, I cut out two, 2" wide x 21" long pieces of fabric.

Why this interfacing?

Because it is very flexible and has a nice thickness to it.

Iron interfacing to wrong side of fabric. 

 Trim off any extra.

Fold straps in half, and steam iron.

Since my print is one directional (yes, I already mentioned it) and if you use something along the same lines, stitch both pieces together, to make one long strap. (1/4" seam) 

Now, do a quick stitch along the bottom of both ends of the strap.

Zas!

Back to the ironing board: Press open your top center seam. Now fold and press 1/4" along the entire length, on both sides. (see photo bellow) Then press the strap one more time (folds on the inside) while folded in half.

Why?

I know that there are funny looking, skinny metal doo-hickeys that one can use to turn fabric right side out, when your sewing a thin strap, but this method here, is how I make my thin straps. Mainly because once you turn the fabric right side out (with the doo-hickey) not only is it wrinkled, and starting to fray, but there is no way to press your seam open. My way is a bit faster (or it seems so to me, since I have been doing it for years) you seams stay nice and ironed, no fraying, and no metal doo-hickey contraption is required.

 And now we do the top stitch all along one side, and then the other.

Slip on your swivel hooks, then end is near!

Fold in about 1/2" over the hook, and stitch back and forth a few times, you want to make sure that sucker isn't going anywhere!

Tadah!

Moderation's:

If you are using a all-over print fabric, cut one 2" x 44" length of fabric, and skip the center seam part of the tutorial.

Step-by-step instructions where given, because we all started sewing wanting to know in detail, how and why something is done.

My padded mat is almost done, and it looks so cute! All I need is to buy some binding this weekend, because those blanket stitches of mine, left alot to be desired.

-Julie

Tutorial: Patchwork ironing board cover --- uber cuteness!

First tutorial (ever) so please bear with me if it gets a bit loopy!

*BTW, I Highly reccomend the Oliso iron. It turned out to be 1000 times better than my Rowenta, and if you are the kind of person, who has scorched a thing or two, with this iron, that will never (ever) happen again. And no, I do not sell these or anything of the sort, it is just an awesome iron.

Patchwork ironing board cover materials list:

Ironing board cover pattern (The one I used is from 1967, but it is for a standard size ironing board, so any pattern should be OK)

Lightweight fusible interfacing

1 ¾ yards cotton fabric for base (optional, but highly recommended)

4 yards single fold bias tape

1 7/8 yards of ¼” wide elastic

348 assorted fabric squares measuring 2 ¼” wide x 2 ½” tall

*Note: I used a mixture of cottons, canvas and linens

All sewing done was with ¼” seams.

 

 

Color palette used:


Red
Yellow
Pink
Green
Multi-color
Orange
Blue
Brown/tan
Purple
Black
White

I recommend you organize the squares by colors in little stacks!

Start by cutting out your ironing board cover base. It works as a placement guide, and not to mention to give your cover some heft. I go thru those cheap mass produced covers a lot, and I finally have a sturdy cover that will last a long time.

 
To make the patchwork cover, there are a total of 30 rows of fabric squares.


Row 1-26 : 12 squares
Row 27-28 : 11 squares
Row 29: 8 squares
Row 30: 6 squares

Start with your first row of 12, choose your color and fabric placements, and don’t forget that you are using ¼” seam to sew all the squares!

Once you have sewn all 30 of your strips, press open your seams.

Having pressed open your seams, you can start piecing together the cover. Star with row 1 and 2, using ¼” seam and continue on until you reach the smallest strip (row 30)

Once all rows are sewn, and you have to go back and press open your seams. Yes, that is a lot of ironing, but if you want to have a lumpy cover, just skip it.

After you have pressed open the rest of the seams, add the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the patchwork cover. Not only is it going to make it sturdy, but it will prevent your seams from unraveling later.

Now, lay your patchwork cover down (back side up) and place the cotton cover on top. Pin in place, and baste together.

Remove pins, and cut out cover shape.

See how none of your seams became un raveled, that is why I used the interfacing!

Your almost done!

Now, look at your handy work, and smile....

Or in my case, shoo the puppy away, there are a few more things to be done.

Pin (if you like) bias tape and machine stitch in place (right sides together) and don’t forget (like I did) to clip your corners!

Attaching elastic: Leave about ½” out, and secure in place at the top of your cover with a few machine stitches. Fold over (under side of cover) bias tape, and stitch in place as you stretch and feed the elastic thru. Secure end of elastic with a few machine stitches. Remove your baste stitches.

Final step: Most ironing board covers come with a very thin (and flimsy) layer of foam. I happened to have some ¼” thick foam, that I placed on the ironing board. I purchased the foam at JoAnn’s, if you want to add a foam base to it. Or, you leave the old cover one, to add some cushion to it. Slip the cover on your ironing board and Voila, your done.

I had a lot of fun making this cover, and writing the instructions down along the way. This tutorial is for your personal use only. Feel free to make one for yourself, or a friend, but not for sale in any way (Etsy, Artfire, Ebay, blah, blah blah).If you have any questions or if I missed a step (sorry) feel free to contact me. If you make one, send me a link to your picture, I would love to see it!


Simbiosis_etsy@yahoo.com